A Mother and Daughter Bring Ukrainian Flavors to Madison's Eastside

Originally published in Madison Magazine

Mother-daughter duo Tetiana Yermolova and Inesa Zolotarenko helm Touch of Ukraine, a Ukrainian concept eatery that settled into the eastside’s Union Corners development just over a year ago.

The pair opened the restaurant in July 2023 with an unconventional team. Just a year and a half prior, most of Touch of Ukraine’s staff was still living in Zaporizhzhia, Ukraine, before the Russian military invasion. When the crew arrived in Madison, they wanted to find a way to contribute to their new community.

In October 2022, five of Touch of Ukraine’s immigrant employees arrived in Madison with a crew of seven others. Nine months later, they opened Touch of Ukraine with the help of their American sponsor. Operating a restaurant was one of the few ways they could find immediate work without English language skills. Yermolova, the only one with food industry experience, helped to flesh out the menu concept: a homey mixture of Ukrainian dishes and local Midwestern favorites.

Zolotarenko describes Ukrainian food as simple, healthy and affordable. While the dishes are straightforward, the preparation is not. “Americans cook more quickly,” says Zolotarenko. “Ukrainian food takes longer to prepare. It’s hard to find cooks who work this way.”

As Touch of Ukraine finds its footing in Madison, Zolotarenko and Yermolova continue to think of friends and family back home. “It’s still shocking,” says Zolotarenko. “We have friends that live 20 kilometers from occupied territory. People get used to everything, but it’s not safe.”

A portion of the restaurant’s profits go to various charitable organizations — including Masha Fund, Serhiy Prytula Charity Foundation and Superhumans Center — that directly support the needs of Ukrainians affected by the war. It’s a way for Zolotarenko and Yermolova to support the country they left behind while sharing its culture with the Madison community.

Featured Dish | Borsch

“Everyone who comes here wants to try borsch,” says Zolotarenko. The iconic Ukrainian starter is perhaps the most vibrant soup in the world, with deep pink and red hues created by its main ingredient: beets.

Other ingredients are added to the pot, including cabbage, potatoes and onions. The beets’ earthiness is elevated by the acidity of tomato paste or sauce, and the dish is served with a dollop of sour cream and sprigs of fresh dill. Touch of Ukraine makes it with pork, and it becomes a full meal when eaten with some pelmeni — dumplings — on the side.

With A Little Help … From Madison Friends

Local developer Gary Gorman and his wife, Mallory, sponsored the relocation of 11 immigrants from Zaporizhzhia after getting to know Zolotarenko’s husband (Yermolova’s son-in-law), an American citizen who had worked for Gorman for more than 15 years. (Zolotarenko immigrated to Madison seven months ahead of her mother, Yermolova, and a year ahead of the rest of the crew.)

It took several months, thousands of dollars and focused diligence to complete a complicated application process for the federal government’s Uniting for Ukraine program. After safely emigrating from Ukraine, Gorman offered Zolotarenko, Yermolova (pictured, left to right) and their crew a spot in his Union Corners development for the restaurant.

Special Occasions | Ukrainian Cheesecake

Lviv cheesecake is the first item on Touch of Ukraine’s dessert menu. It’s denser and less sweet than traditional American cheesecake, and it’s a great complement to a hot cup of coffee. It’s made with some familiar ingredients (eggs, butter and sugar), but it also features dried fruit — in this case, dried apricots.

Cream cheese is replaced with a type of cottage cheese that’s more akin to farmer cheese than the curdled variety that’s popular in the States. Then the cake is baked in a loaf pan and coated in rich chocolate ganache. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, Tetiana Yermolova and Inesa Zolotarenko suggest trying the Napoleon cake, featuring layers of puff pastry. “This is the cake made for every celebration in Ukraine,” says Zolotarenko.

Touch(es) of Ukraine | Details from Here and There

The industrial dining space, which used to house Union Corners Brewery, is warmed with touches of Ukrainian decor throughout. Blue-and-yellow placemats and flowers adorn each table. A Ukrainian flag with the “tryzub,” or trident, hangs on the wall. Original paintings by Ukrainian crew member Daria Haidash depict vibrant cultural scenes.

The paintings are for sale, alongside T-shirts with various Ukrainian images. The space isn’t 100% dedicated to Ukraine, though — Bucky memorabilia and vintage Wisconsin football helmets are displayed throughout the dining room, creating an apt representation of the blended culture that drives this business forward.

будьмо!

That means “Cheers!” in Ukrainian. Khor, a popular horilka (vodka) brand, is made in Zolotarenko’s and Yermolova’s hometown of Zaporizhzhia. The restaurant features the spirit in several cocktails, including the Kyiv Mule and Ukrainian Cosmo. But if you want to imbibe Ukrainian style, enjoy a chilled shot of Khor and toast to a great night.